14 Days/13 Nigths
Max. Altitude: 6768 m / 22,204 ft
Route: Climbing Nevado Pisco, Chopicalqui & Huascaran
Availability: May - August
Difficulty: Difficult
People per Guide: 3 - 2
Nevado Pisco lies in Cordillera Blanca and forms a part of a mountain range called Macizo de Huandoy. It lies in the central part of Cordillera Blanca, in Yunghay province. It became a popular mountain due to its spectacular views and an easy approach. The normal western route is ideal for acclimatization and many mountaineers use it as a finish of their trek or as a beginning to acclimate before climbing technically more challenging mountains.
Nevado Chopicalqui is the third Huascaran peak of the massif, located in the Cordillera Blanca, between the two peaks ofthe Huascaran and Contrahierbas, in the Yungay province. The trail inside the valley goes around the edge of the two beautiful, with emerald-like water lakes of Llanganuco: chinacocha (Female lake) and Orconcocha (Male Lake)
Nevado Huascaran is located in the Yungay province, Ancash department at about 70 km from Huaraz, department capital. At 6768m, it is the highest tropical Mountain in Peru, and is surrounded by peaks reaching over 5000m of height in the Cordillera Blanca sector.
TIP:
This is a very good hike to acclimatize. From Huaraz we go by car to the village of Pitec. On the way we pass several picturesque villages, such as Unchus and Llupa. At 3850 m /12,631 ft we start our easy hike up to Lake Churup with its blue colors sitting at an altitude of 4440 m /14,566 ft ling over steep rocks. And then we come back to Huaraz by the same way.
Day 01: Huaraz - Yuraccoral 3850 m / 12,631 ft - Base Camp 4650 m / 15,255 ft
From Huaraz, we will take a shuttle to Yuraccoral (approx. 2 to 3 hours). On the way, you will be able to appreciate amazing sights such as two beautiful lagoons: Chinancocha (lag. Hembra) and Orconcocha (lag. Macho). We will follow the Llanguna Valley to Cebollapampa. From there, we will begin the hike to base camp, where we will camp for the night. The hike will last approx. 4 to 5 hours.
Day 02: Base Camp - Summit Pisco 5752 m / 18,871 ft – Base Camp
We start very early, at 3:00, traversing various moraines to reach the glacier. We then pass very steep slopes (inclination 35-40°) to reach the peak. A magnificent view opens in front of us, including the gigantic Chacraraju, Artesonraju (Paramount logo), Huandoys, Caraz, Huascaran, Alpamayo and others. We then descend to Base camp. 6-7 hours aprox.
Day 03: Base Camp - Base Camp of Chopicalqui Mountain
We descend to Cebollapampa and continue to walk until base camp.
Day 04: Base camp 4430 m / 14,534 ft– Morraine Camp 4820 m / 15,813 ft
We will start our hike by a ridge and continuing until we reach Morraine Camp where we will spend the night. Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
Day 05: Morraine Camp - High Camp 5380 m / 17,650 ft
We will start the hike by crossing several moraines until we reach the glacier. Then, we will start the journey up to the 5380m point where we will set up camp. Approx. 4 hours.
Day 06: High Camp - Summit Chopicalqui 6354 m / 20,846 ft - Morraine Camp
We will start our hike at 1 am, ascending until we reach the ridge, before continuing onto the first wall (50m, 50-60°) and then the second wall (60m, 50-65°) (please note that the inclination varies every year). We will climb to the top where great mountain views will await us. Later, we will descend to Campo Morrena. Approx. 5 to 6 hour hike.
Day 07: Morraine Camp - Huaraz
On the seven day, we will descend to the hairpin, where our ride will be waiting for us to return to Huaraz. Approx. 3 to 4 hours.
Day 08: Rest Day in Huaraz
Free day.
Day 09: Huaraz – Musho – Base Camp 4250 m / 13,943 ft
From Huaraz we will drive to a village called Musho, where we will start our hike, first going through a forest of eucalyptus trees, until we get to base camp. We will also have donkeys and donkey drivers with us during this hike. Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
Day 10: Base camp – Camp 1 5260 m / 17,257 ft
This day we will begin our hike by crossing a large granite moraine until reaching a wide glacier, where we will get to 5260m and set up camp for the night. Approx. 5 to 6 hours.
Day 11: Camp 1 – camp 2 or George 6000 m / 19,685 ft
The hike to Camp 2 will start early in order to avoid the crossing seracs after the couloir. This is an easy trail of approx. 4 hours.
Day 12: High Camp 2 – Summit Huascaran Mountain 6768 m / 22,204 ft – High Camp 2
The hike will start at 1 am, taking a zigzag trail in order to avoid the crevices. Afterwards, we will climb narrow passages of 50 to 60° inclination. After climbing all of them, we will reach a wide glacier where we will carry on zigzagging until we reach the top. From the top, you will be able to appreciate the mountain range of the Cordillera Blanca. Then we will go down to Camp 2 to spend the night. Approx 6 to 7 hours.
Day 13: Camp 2 – Base Camp
We will take the same route as before to reach Base Camp (4250 m / 13,943 ft). Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
Day 14: Base Camp – Musho – Huaraz
We will go down to the village of Musho where our vehicle back to Huaraz will be waiting. 3 hours walk + 2.5hrs transport.
START DATE | END DATE | DETAILS | STATUS |
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Octavio Salazar
Email:
office@andeanpeaks.com
Expedition Nevados Pisco 5752 m & Chopicalqui 6345 m
Trekking Cedros Alpamayo 5947 m
Expedition Nevados Alpamayo 5947 m & Huascaran 6768 m