15 Days/14 Nigths
Max. Altitude: 6040 m / 19,816 ft
Route: Exedition Ishinca Valley, Alpamayo & Quitaraju
Availability: May - September
Difficulty: Difficult
People per Guide: 3 - 2
Urus – Ishinca – Tocllaraju Mountain are located in the Cordillera Blanca and belong to the Chinchey Massif. They are located in the Ishinca Valley, chosen by many tourists for an easy acclimatization before climbing any other mountain which is higher than 6000m above sea level.
Nevado Alpamayo It was considered by the newspaper Alpinismo (May 1966) as the “most beautiful mountain in the world”
TIP:
This is a very good hike to acclimatize. From Huaraz we go by car to the village of Pitec. On the way we pass several picturesque villages, such as Unchus and Llupa. At 3850 m /12,631 ft we start our easy hike up to Lake Churup with its blue colors sitting at an altitude of 4440 m /14,566 ft ling over steep rocks. And then we come back to Huaraz by the same way.
Day 01: Huaraz – Pashpa – Base Camp 4350 m / 14,271 ft
From Huaraz we will drive to Cochapampa where our Donkey Driver will be waiting for us. From there we will start our hike, going through a forest of Quenuales trees until Base Camp. Approx. 4 hours
Day 02: Base Camp – Urus Summit 5450 m / 17,880 ft– Base Camp
We will start our ascent at 3 am by a steep ridge until we reach the glacier, before climbing along a spectacular ridge to the summit, with views of the Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca peaks among others. After the summit, we will go down to base camp. Approx. 5 hours.
Day 03: Base Camp – Ishinca Summit 5550 m / 18,208 ft – Base Camp
We will start our ascent at 3 am, taking a zigzag trail to the glacier, where we will begin our journey to the top. From there, we will have a truly panoramic view. Then, we will go down to base camp.
Day 04: Rest day
Rest day. Optional only. It is also possible to go on a 2 hour walk to Lake Milhuacocha this day.
Day 05: Base Camp – Morraine Camp 5100 m / 16,732 ft
We will hike a zigzag trail for four hours until we reach 5100m, where we set up camp.
Day 06: Morraine Camp – Tocllaraju summit 6034 m / 19,796 ft – Base Camp
We will start the ascent at 1am along a large glacier until we get to the first 50m wall (55-65°). After climbing it, we will reach a ridge with views of the Callejon de Conchucos. We will carry on to the summit where we will be rewarded with a splendid view. In the afternoon, we will descend to base camp. Approx. 6 to 7 hours.
Day 07: Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz
On the last day we will go on an easy trail to go back to Cochapampa and return to Huaraz with our private vehicle. Approx. 3 ½ hours.
Day 08: Rest Day in Huaraz
Free day.
Day 09: Huaraz – Cashapampa 2800 m / 9,186 ft – Llamacoral 3750 m / 12,303 ft
From Huaraz we will drive to a village called Cashapampa with our shuttle vehicle. The donkeys and Donkey Driver will be waiting for us there. From there, we will begin our trail through the Santa Cruz valley until reaching Llamacoral, where we will set up camp. Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
Day 10: Llamacoral – Base Camp 4250 m / 13,943 ft
On day ten we will start our trail in the same valley where the views of two beautiful lakes, Chinacocha and Orconcocha can be enjoyed. Then we will take a Zigzag trail to Base Camp. Approx. 5 hours.
Day 11: Base Camp – High Camp 5450 m / 17,880 ft
We will hike up to High Camp, first via a rocky trail until arriving at the glacier, then we will trek through ice and snow with some steep parts until we get to 5450m where we will set up camp.
Day 12: High Camp – Summit Alpamayo Mountain 5947 m / 19,511 ft
The hike will start at 1 am, trekking until we surpass a bergschrund where the technical part in the ice begins until we reach the summit. Then we will abseil down to High Camp. Approx. 6 to 7 hours. (optional: can go down to base camp)
Day 13: High Camp – Summit Quitaraju 6040 m / 19,816 ft
The hike will start at 1 am, we will walk until we climb a crevice where the technical part on ice starts. It will go on until we get to the top, then we will descend with several rappels to High Camp. Approx. 6 to 7 hours. (optional: can go down to base camp)
Day 14: High Camp – Base Camp
Relaxed descent to base camp. Approx. 4 to 5 hours
Day 15: Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz
Walk back through Santa Cruz Valley to Cashapampa, where our vehicle will be waiting for us. Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
START DATE | END DATE | DETAILS | STATUS |
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Octavio Salazar
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office@andeanpeaks.com
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